http://hopjockeys.org/forums/ Forums for the Hop Jockey's homebrewing club. en-US Tue, 07 Feb 2012 17:21:04 +0000 http://bbpress.org/?v=1.0.2 q http://hopjockeys.org/forums/search.php http://hopjockeys.org/forums/topic.php?id=57#post-115 Sat, 13 Nov 2010 13:32:28 +0000 jason_m 115@http://hopjockeys.org/forums/ <p>My plan is to always work out my pre-boil gravity before I add any hops to wort. Once you add the hops, you are on a timer that cannot be stopped. The more you go over on your time, the more bitter your beer will be.</p> <p>Once I've collected my wort from the mash tun and it is heating up, I'll take a gravity reading on the refractometer. I'll also take a volume reading on the site glass.</p> <p>Let's say I had 7 gallons of 1.040 wort. I would multiply Volume * Gravity to determine my gravity points. 7gallons x 40points = 280 gravity points. No matter how much I boil, I am always going to have 280 gravity points. I can only concentrate by boiling or dilute by adding water. So if I boil the wort down to 5 gallons, I'll have a 1.056 gravity. SG=gravity points/volume; 1.056 = 280/5</p> <p>Lets say I wanted a final gravity of 1.060 at 5 gallons instead? I would know that I needed 300 gravity points to start with. I would have been 20 points low. How do you come up with the extra 20 points? You can get them by adding dry malt extract (DME). 1lb of DME is worth 40 points. 0.5 lbs is worth 20 points.</p> <p>Once you've dialed in your starting gravity, you good for the rest of the boil. Follow your hop schedule and your "Malty to Hoppy" ratio is locked in as well. The only thing that you can miss will be your final volume. Just keep an eye on it it and adjust your flame if you are boiling off to much or too little.</p> <p>But if you are too high or too low on volume in the end, you are just fine... because your maltyness to hoppiness ratio has been set by hitting your preboil gravity. </p> http://hopjockeys.org/forums/topic.php?id=57#post-114 Sat, 13 Nov 2010 04:14:27 +0000 Luke Hoekstra 114@http://hopjockeys.org/forums/ <p>Brewers,</p> <p>I want to pass along this link to a graph that shows the relationship between the two most important components of a drinkable beer: <a href="http://www.brewsupplies.com/hops-gravity.htm" rel="nofollow">http://www.brewsupplies.com/hops-gravity.htm</a>. I love this shit.</p> <p>For troubleshooting recipes and brewdays, balance of sweet and bitter is critical. If the pre-boil gravity of your wort is too low you either need to (1) boil off some water before hopping (2) add less hops (3) or add some more extract to your wort. </p> <p>OK, maybe you forgot to take a pre-boil gravity. If you did not hit your original gravity, then you should boil up a concentrate mix of Dry Malt Extract in order give your beer more balance. The additional sugar will balance the bitter and make sure your beer does not finish too dry! </p> <p>1 lb of Dry extract will add about 8.5 gravity points in 5 gallons (44 pts/gl) </p> <p>Note: You must use malt extract for corrections like this. Table sugar is too fermentable and will simply increase your ABV. I'm also attaching a dilution calculator for on-the-fly corrections. Feel free to email me if you need clarification.</p> <p>Cheers,<br /> Luke </p> http://hopjockeys.org/forums/topic.php?id=54#post-105 Mon, 06 Sep 2010 01:58:10 +0000 jason_m 105@http://hopjockeys.org/forums/ <p>Here are some pictures of my brew cart. Mike wanted me to take some pictures this weekend. I thought I would share them with everyone.</p> <p><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/jason.mundy/BrewCart?feat=directlink" rel="nofollow">http://picasaweb.google.com/jason.mundy/BrewCart?feat=directlink</a></p> <p>Some older pictures here:<br /> <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/jason.mundy/BrewRig?feat=directlink" rel="nofollow">http://picasaweb.google.com/jason.mundy/BrewRig?feat=directlink</a> </p> http://hopjockeys.org/forums/topic.php?id=53#post-104 Thu, 02 Sep 2010 15:53:53 +0000 Joshua Krieger 104@http://hopjockeys.org/forums/ <p>I have completed work on the larger brew system and have now put two batches through it, one five gallon and one ten gallon. Both batches went very well, and I am continuing to learn about the system and how to make it as time and effort efficient as possible. The write up for the big system is in the second post of the link below. A post about the ten gallon brew day is near the end of the thread. </p> <p>It is good to brew again. I ran out of my own beer and it was just no good. </p> <p><a href="http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/modular-electric-brewery-177852/" rel="nofollow">http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/modular-electric-brewery-177852/</a> </p> http://hopjockeys.org/forums/topic.php?id=52#post-102 Thu, 05 Aug 2010 16:02:25 +0000 Luke Hoekstra 102@http://hopjockeys.org/forums/ <p>I've been a slave to my little 7 gallon Bourbon Barrel. First in the barrel was a Wee Heavy, inspired by the club's project. Then a friend and I brewed a Russian Imperial Stout and partigyled a Smoked Porter off of the second runnings. </p> <p>Then I decided to funk it up, so I put a Belgian-style Dark Strong finished with Brett B into the barrel with ~10 #'s of sour cherries. Next we have a 100% Brett fermented Belgian-style pale that will go into the barrel sometime next week. Finally, we're brewing a Flanders Red this weekend that will spend some time in the barrel after the Pale is finished.</p> <p>I love me some funky beer. </p> http://hopjockeys.org/forums/topic.php?id=52#post-101 Wed, 04 Aug 2010 13:46:00 +0000 sativen 101@http://hopjockeys.org/forums/ <p>Lately? Hmmm.... Belgian Pale, Belg Dark Strong, Eng Dark Mild, RIS, Rye Pale, Barleywine, 100%-Rye IPA, Pumpkin Amber, Pepper Pale, Double Red, IPA, and Belgian IPA...... I think that's all. </p> <p>:)<br /> Steve </p> http://hopjockeys.org/forums/topic.php?id=52#post-99 Wed, 04 Aug 2010 03:58:08 +0000 jason_m 99@http://hopjockeys.org/forums/ <p>Hey Ryan. Good to hear from you again.</p> <p> I just brewed an American Brown Ale on the 24th in the Upland Parking lot. I had a couple of glasses of it tonight. It is still kind of young.</p> <p>My plans are to brew an American Light Lager with WLP830 yeast. I'll use the resulting yeast cake to brew a Munich Dunkel and a Bock. </p> http://hopjockeys.org/forums/topic.php?id=52#post-97 Tue, 03 Aug 2010 21:28:27 +0000 RyanC 97@http://hopjockeys.org/forums/ <p>Just curious what everyone is brewing. I've been out of the brewing loop for a while and thought this would be a way to get caught up with everyone.</p> <p>The only thing I have going right now is a bock that has been aging at 29F for the last 7 months. When I am able to do so I plan to transfer it to kegs to freeze concentrate it to make EISBOCK! </p> http://hopjockeys.org/forums/topic.php?id=48#post-91 Fri, 11 Jun 2010 22:18:18 +0000 John Fansler 91@http://hopjockeys.org/forums/ <p>I hava a flat beer. Due to experimenting. It was carbonated at one time. Could I add just a little corn sugar to it to get it started again before I rebottle. </p> http://hopjockeys.org/forums/topic.php?id=25#post-90 Fri, 11 Jun 2010 11:27:58 +0000 jason_m 90@http://hopjockeys.org/forums/ <p>American Pale Ale </p> <p>Type: All Grain<br /> Date: 5/1/2010<br /> Batch Size: 6.00 gal<br /> Brewer: Jason Mundy<br /> Boil Size: 6.87 gal Asst Brewer:<br /> Boil Time: 60 min Equipment: 10 Gallon Boil Pot - Single Tier Rig<br /> Brewhouse Efficiency: 65.00<br /> Taste Notes: </p> <p>Ingredients</p> <p>Amount Item Type % or IBU<br /> 12.10 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 84.96 %<br /> 0.80 lb Munich Malt (9.0 SRM) Grain 5.64 %<br /> 0.80 lb Victory Malt (25.0 SRM) Grain 5.64 %<br /> 0.54 lb Wheat Malt, Ger (2.0 SRM) Grain 3.76 %<br /> 0.25 oz Centennial [9.00 %] (60 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops -<br /> 0.77 oz Magnum [14.00 %] (60 min) Hops 40.0 IBU<br /> 0.25 oz Cascade [6.00 %] (10 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops -<br /> 0.50 oz Cascade [6.00 %] (0 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops -<br /> 0.50 oz Centennial [9.00 %] (0 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops -<br /> 1 Pkgs California Ale (White Labs #WLP001) [Starter 1000 ml] Yeast-Ale </p> <p>Beer Profile</p> <p>Est Original Gravity: 1.056 SG<br /> Measured Original Gravity: 1.010 SG<br /> Est Final Gravity: 1.013 SG Measured Final Gravity: 1.005 SG<br /> Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 5.66 % Actual Alcohol by Vol: 0.65 %<br /> Bitterness: 40.0 IBU Calories: 43 cal/pint<br /> Est Color: 6.6 SRM Color: Color </p> <p>Mash Profile</p> <p>Mash Name: Single Infusion, Light Body, Batch Sparge Total Grain Weight: 14.24 lb<br /> Sparge Water: 4.13 gal Grain Temperature: 72.0 F<br /> Sparge Temperature: 168.0 F TunTemperature: 72.0 F<br /> Adjust Temp for Equipment: FALSE Mash PH: 5.4 PH </p> <p>Single Infusion, Light Body, Batch Sparge Step Time Name Description Step Temp<br /> 75 min Mash In Add 17.80 qt of water at 163.7 F 152.0 F </p> <p>Mash Notes: Simple single infusion mash for use with most modern well modified grains (about 95% of the time). </p> http://hopjockeys.org/forums/topic.php?id=24&page=2#post-82 Thu, 03 Jun 2010 13:42:42 +0000 jason_m 82@http://hopjockeys.org/forums/ <p>I'll bring some to the next meeting. Not sure if you are going to be at this one one or not.</p> <p>I've been enjoying the cream ale that was made via the standard chilling method.</p> <p>The No Chill Cream Ale needs some time on the CO2 tank to carbonate.</p> <p>I want to bring in some of each to compare. </p> http://hopjockeys.org/forums/topic.php?id=24#post-81 Thu, 03 Jun 2010 12:25:01 +0000 Richard Lord 81@http://hopjockeys.org/forums/ <p>Any updates on this project? </p> http://hopjockeys.org/forums/topic.php?id=31#post-68 Thu, 27 May 2010 12:37:04 +0000 Richard Lord 68@http://hopjockeys.org/forums/ <p>My dad and I were trying to determine amounts/timing for secondary spice additions and we ran across this handy excel spreadsheet.</p> <p><a href="http://www.byo.com/images/stories/brewspices.xls" rel="nofollow">http://www.byo.com/images/stories/brewspices.xls</a> </p> http://hopjockeys.org/forums/topic.php?id=30#post-67 Tue, 25 May 2010 01:35:34 +0000 jason_m 67@http://hopjockeys.org/forums/ <p>That formula looks so complex. It's not something I'm going to whip up in the middle of a brew day.</p> <p>I use Brewsmith to do most of my calculations. But its nice to see the formula that they are using to come up with the answer. </p> http://hopjockeys.org/forums/topic.php?id=30#post-66 Mon, 24 May 2010 05:45:46 +0000 MikeMiller 66@http://hopjockeys.org/forums/ <p>This is an online tool to calculate IBU in a finished beer. You can input batch size, O.G., and upto 5 hop additions with boil time and alpha acid.</p> <p><a href="http://www.rooftopbrew.net/ibu.php" rel="nofollow">http://www.rooftopbrew.net/ibu.php</a> </p> http://hopjockeys.org/forums/topic.php?id=29#post-64 Tue, 18 May 2010 10:00:02 +0000 MikeMiller 64@http://hopjockeys.org/forums/ <p>This venue is located on 4th and Walnut where the Cinemat used to be. They have a tap room and 5 or so booths.</p> <p>They still have Maudite on tap along with a rotating line-up of hard to find beers. Yeah, for real, Maudite on draft. I've had Three Floyds Pride and Joy, Rogue Irish Ale, and Dogfish Head ApriHop this month. Wednesdays are $3 pints of everything (only 12oz Maudite, $18 for pitcher), but you have to be down with hipsters. </p> http://hopjockeys.org/forums/topic.php?id=27#post-62 Tue, 18 May 2010 07:19:43 +0000 MikeMiller 62@http://hopjockeys.org/forums/ <p>No diacetyl! Clove and fruity esters.</p> <p>If I can hit the style, I could get it in by the state fair deadline. </p> http://hopjockeys.org/forums/topic.php?id=27#post-61 Tue, 18 May 2010 04:04:06 +0000 MikeMiller 61@http://hopjockeys.org/forums/ <p>I'm interested in a brewing this style for my roommates's 30th birthday. The weather should be hot for this dry wheat.</p> <p>BJCP:</p> <p><a href="http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style15.php#1d" rel="nofollow">http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style15.php#1d</a></p> <p>I found a recipe from BeerduJour:</p> <p><a href="http://beerdujour.com/Recipes/Jamil/Roggenbier.html" rel="nofollow">http://beerdujour.com/Recipes/Jamil/Roggenbier.html</a></p> <p>So, basically any yest is acceptable: WL300, WL380, wheat, wit, ale, etc.</p> <p>I want to do this around 50% rye and 45% wheat with some flavoring malts. Any low alpha acid hop can be used: tett, saaz, or hallertau.</p> <p>I'm looking for a dry wheat with a nice fruit, bread, hop finish. I'll aim for 10 ibu and dry hop the rest up o 20. </p> http://hopjockeys.org/forums/topic.php?id=5#post-60 Thu, 13 May 2010 19:56:03 +0000 Joshua Krieger 60@http://hopjockeys.org/forums/ <p>I have put up a more thorough write up of the system at the link below. I have now brewed two beers on the system and will get another in this coming week. Th first one is now carbonated and has turned out quite well. I have a small mount of tweaking to do, but overall I am really happy with the system. </p> <p><a href="http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/modular-electric-brewery-177852/" rel="nofollow">http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/modular-electric-brewery-177852/</a></p> <p>Joshua </p> http://hopjockeys.org/forums/topic.php?id=24#post-56 Wed, 28 Apr 2010 18:51:26 +0000 jason_m 56@http://hopjockeys.org/forums/ <p>The winpak is a sealed drum. Nothing goes in or out once the lid is screw on. Here is a picture of it.<br /> <a href="http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23285&amp;clickid=redirect" rel="nofollow">http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23285&amp;clickid=redirect</a></p> <p>If there were an air lock on it, then air would be sucked into the container as the liquid cools. Instead, the boiling wort contracts and the side walls of the winpak cave in.</p> <p>A sign of infect would be if the sides of the winpak container start to bulge due to an increase of pressure in the sealed container.</p> <p>I won't ferment in the winpak. The winpak is only used to hold the wort until I'm ready to ferment at a later date. </p> http://hopjockeys.org/forums/topic.php?id=24#post-55 Wed, 28 Apr 2010 11:55:25 +0000 Richard Lord 55@http://hopjockeys.org/forums/ <p>Do you put an airlock on that like usual to test for any unwanted bacterial / wild yeast action prior to pitching? I'm still trying to wrap my head around exactly how the Winpak works ;) </p> http://hopjockeys.org/forums/topic.php?id=25#post-54 Wed, 28 Apr 2010 01:16:02 +0000 jason_m 54@http://hopjockeys.org/forums/ <p>I went to Butler and picked up some ingredients for my brewing this weekend. I'll be making an American Pale Ale. Again, I'll be following the all grain recipe from Brewing Classic Styles. </p> http://hopjockeys.org/forums/topic.php?id=24#post-53 Wed, 28 Apr 2010 01:12:21 +0000 jason_m 53@http://hopjockeys.org/forums/ <p>The wort has been sitting in the Winpak for five days. I'm making a starter with yeast collected from my last fermentation. I expect to move the wort form the winpak to the carboy, aerate, and pitch my yeast tomorrow. </p> http://hopjockeys.org/forums/topic.php?id=24#post-52 Fri, 23 Apr 2010 13:06:22 +0000 jason_m 52@http://hopjockeys.org/forums/ <blockquote><p>From the pics it looks like they are using a different bucket than most of us use, presumably to minimize the air flow into the bucket.</p></blockquote> <p>Maybe I should call the Winpak container a drum instead of a bucket. It is a sealed container with a screw on cap. When I drained the boiling wort into the container, I squeezed in the sides to push the last bit of air out and screwed on the cap.</p> <p>I sanitized the container with starsan. The boiling wort also heat pasteurizes it. It is sealed, so no other critters get in later. In fact, the sides of the container suck in as the wort cools to room temperature.</p> <p>From what I've read, brewers who do this in Australia are able to keep their wort for over a month in these containers and pitch their yeast at their leisure. </p> http://hopjockeys.org/forums/topic.php?id=24#post-51 Fri, 23 Apr 2010 01:48:20 +0000 Richard Lord 51@http://hopjockeys.org/forums/ <p>Interesting, this just screams infection to me but I am interested to see how it turns out.</p> <p>From the pics it looks like they are using a different bucket than most of us use, presumably to minimize the air flow into the bucket. Did you do anything special while racking over? </p> http://hopjockeys.org/forums/topic.php?id=24#post-50 Thu, 22 Apr 2010 16:00:21 +0000 jason_m 50@http://hopjockeys.org/forums/ <p>Brewed another Cream Ale. The exact same recipe as last week. The only difference is that I didn't chill the wort at the end of the boil. Instead, I opened the valve at a full boil and drained it into a Winpak drum. It is sealed tight.</p> <p>I am waiting for it to cool on its own and I will rack to a fermenter, oxygenate, and pitch.</p> <p>I am interested to see how the two beers compare. One was brewed traditionally with an immersion chiller. The other, same recipe, same procedure, but naturally cooled over night in a food/heat safe container.</p> <p>Here is a link that talks about the method:<br /> <a href="http://www.brewersfriend.com/2009/06/06/australian-no-chill-brewing-technique-tested/" rel="nofollow">http://www.brewersfriend.com/2009/06/06/australian-no-chill-brewing-technique-tested/</a> </p> http://hopjockeys.org/forums/topic.php?id=23#post-49 Tue, 20 Apr 2010 22:04:41 +0000 jason_m 49@http://hopjockeys.org/forums/ <p>I've not made any belgian beers, so I cannot speak from experience. </p> <p>Here's a kit from Northern Brewer:<br /> <a href="http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/witbier-extract-kit-2.html" rel="nofollow">http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/witbier-extract-kit-2.html</a></p> <p>Here is NB's instruction sheet on the beer, including an inventory of ingredients. If you can't wait for NB to ship it, you could try to go to Butler and piece the recipe together.<br /> <a href="http://www.northernbrewer.com/documentation/beerkits/Witbier.pdf" rel="nofollow">http://www.northernbrewer.com/documentation/beerkits/Witbier.pdf</a></p> <p>Jason </p> http://hopjockeys.org/forums/topic.php?id=23#post-48 Tue, 20 Apr 2010 20:33:17 +0000 egoy 48@http://hopjockeys.org/forums/ <p>Any recommendations on an extract kit to use with this month's yeast? </p> http://hopjockeys.org/forums/topic.php?id=22#post-47 Sun, 18 Apr 2010 11:47:27 +0000 jason_m 47@http://hopjockeys.org/forums/ <p>Tim,</p> <p>I don't have access to my recipe book right now (Brewing Classic Styles), but the style you are looking for is Saison. I have found a recipe that someone says is from the book. I have not verified the recipe, but it looks good.</p> <p>I found it the recipe via a google search here:<br /> <a href="http://www.garagebrewers.com/forum/topic?f=14&amp;t=1340" rel="nofollow">http://www.garagebrewers.com/forum/topic?f=14&amp;t=1340</a></p> <blockquote><p> This is the Saison recipe from Jamil Zainasheff and John Palmer's Brewing Classic Styles (extract version):<br /> OG 1.060<br /> FG 1.008<br /> IBU 27<br /> ABV 6.9%</p> <p>It is kind of impractical to use LME in the method below unless you have some re-sealable containers. If you don't want to go through the trouble, I would just use the Pilsner LME (might have to use a bit more) and Cane Sugar and maybe steep with some wheat and munich malt. This will leave the beer hazy, but it will give you some of the flavor and color you're looking for.<br /> Extract:<br /> 7.7 Lbs Pilsner LME<br /> 1.0 Lbs Cane Sugar<br /> .75 lbs Wheat LME<br /> .5 lbs Munich LME</p> <p>Steeping Grains:<br /> 2 oz Caramunich 60L You can probably just use Crystal here if you can't find caramunich.</p> <p>Hallertau 4% AA 1.7 Oz at 60 minutes<br /> Hallertau 4% AA .75 Oz at 0 minutes</p> <p>Yeast:<br /> White Labs WLP565 or Wyeast 3724. Make a 2 liter starter and ferment at around 70 degrees, ramping the temp up to around 80 over the course of the fermentation if you have the ability. If not, you may get a little less attenuation, but it will still be good.<br /> A hint in the book says if your attenuation gets stuck, add a packet of S-05 or a starter of 1056. </p></blockquote> http://hopjockeys.org/forums/topic.php?id=22#post-46 Sun, 18 Apr 2010 10:28:58 +0000 tmoore 46@http://hopjockeys.org/forums/ <p>dose any one have a recipe for this? I have never tried one and not sure what I am looking for in style </p> http://hopjockeys.org/forums/topic.php?id=5#post-43 Fri, 16 Apr 2010 04:40:17 +0000 Joshua Krieger 43@http://hopjockeys.org/forums/ <p>I did all of the fabrication for the entire system, including some of the special tools to draw the fittings through, etc. </p> <p>The solder is a high temperature silver solder that is FDA approved for food contact. It was actually fairly easy to do, and it is very strong. For a system this size, I would do the solder again. I actually had access to a TIG welder and chose the solder. The only time that I would choose TIG for these types of fittings is if it was going to be a direct fired vessel; in the event of a dry fire, the solder could melt. </p> http://hopjockeys.org/forums/topic.php?id=16#post-38 Thu, 15 Apr 2010 13:11:48 +0000 jason_m 38@http://hopjockeys.org/forums/ <p>Brewing a Cream Ale today. 1.050 SG and 18 IBU.</p> <p>Looks like I'll have a good start today. I mashed in at 0800. </p> http://hopjockeys.org/forums/topic.php?id=5#post-37 Thu, 15 Apr 2010 03:34:21 +0000 RyanC 37@http://hopjockeys.org/forums/ <p>Nice work Josh! So you didn't have to tig weld the fittings at all, you just soldered them? </p> http://hopjockeys.org/forums/topic.php?id=11#post-33 Wed, 14 Apr 2010 14:34:49 +0000 jason_m 33@http://hopjockeys.org/forums/ <p>Much cheaper than Lowes. Where theres a will theres a way. </p> http://hopjockeys.org/forums/topic.php?id=5#post-32 Wed, 14 Apr 2010 14:31:20 +0000 jason_m 32@http://hopjockeys.org/forums/ <p>Nice! Did you do the soldering yourself? </p>